Stopping leaks-Gaskets

Gaskets Are The Main cause of Leaks

there are many, (i.e) head gasket, oil pan, valve cover, timing cover, trans, water pump, etc., all have gaskets that leak.

Sometimes we get lazy I get it, I do. But which would you prefer?

Having to do more work because of missed maintenance?

Or A better running Vehicle for keeping up with the maintenance?

I personally like the peace of mind, the experience, and just knowing its done! Honestly even when I have extra money that I could take it to a shop, I still every time take the Job on myself. Unless of course it has to do with the A/C. note: Do not mistake jobs that you might have to unbolt the a/c comp. for a/c jobs. A simple unbolt and move out the way will not harm your a/c.

OK lets get to it!

OIL PAN GASKET

• I'll start off by saying that it isn't as hard as it sounds just a lot of attention to detail required
• If you don't have a Haynes manual get one! Its important for the DIY even when you have experience because any mistake and you'll still have a reference for back up.
• I wont list sizes of bolts because they can vary

Things needed

• oil pan gasket,
•  rear main seal, (mines was a double lip)
• a special sealant for the seal (forgot the name just google it),
• carb cleaner or similar, (for cleaning)
• a wire brush or (better in my experience), wood sand paper, for smoothing out the gasket surfaces.
• Jack and stands,  also a 2X4(for raising the engine slightly for clearance.
• Punch and hammer to remove old rear main seal. (the upper half)
• Needle nose pliers

I'll have a help video below, so follow along:

• Disconnect the negative cable from the battery!
• Get a few sockets out probably gonna be close to a 12mm or 13mm.
• Drain the oil, remove the filter,

After oil is drained go under the vehicle, its a messy job, be as neat as can be.

Grab a few zip lock bags and what ever you loosen, label the bag and put the bolts for it in the bag.

in this case use a marker and label it "oil pan bolts".... take a look below

side by the oil filter, you can see the bolts along side of the pan

Here's another shot of the bolts slowly without rushing with a long extension and the correct size socket remove each bolt.

 After you have gotten all the bolts off place them in the zip lock bag and make sure you have them all.

Here's where the challenging part comes, I know your gonna try....

its been heard of.... the pan usually, rather almost never comes out that easy unless you have a really high lift. And even then its questionable. Anyway your jack on the passenger side frame, right behind the front tire, Check out the video and you will see what I mean. Once you get the pan out almost half your job is done!:)

OK.

 so by now you should at least have the Pan out, if not email me/post a reply. I will be glad to help.

But the video has good instructions. Just remove the trans cross member, vs removing the engine mount bolts. A 2X4 (mines was a little big) on the jacks head and under the trans pan will support the trans while you remove the cross member after that its just slightly raising the trans little by little, and watching the pan slide as you do it. It should be leaning downward toward the flywheel plate. As soon as you see enough clearance which all you need is a little room anyway. You slide it out towards the trans.

A shot of the jack supporting the pan with a wood block in between.

A 2X4 is preferred.

The Oil Pan. S.O.A.B

After the pan is out the way. Go back under there with some goggles on, so oil wont drip in your eyes. There should be to big bolts, the ones closest to the flex plate. After removing those two bolts remove the cover for the seal. The bolts are 80lbs torque so put some muscle or use a breaker bar.

                              

Rear Main seal on this side ^^^^   <-back engine & front - >

The rear main seal! This is the cap/cover the upper half is where the pan and flex plate meet.

To remove: follow the Haynes Manual care must be taken when removing so damage doesn't occur.

The procedure is using a punch and hammer to tap it on one side while it slides out the other, just enough for you to grab with some needle nose pliers.

Then comes the cleaning the gasket matting surfaces. Its always best to have a nice clean shiny surface. I accomplish this easily with some wood sand paper a light grit nothing heavy.

A little muscle scraps gaskets right off. After spraying a little carb cleaner, it will be spotless and nice and smooth.

oil pan

Upper rear main seal

the lower rear main seal and its cover/ cap

mounting holes is on left and right.

 So after cleaning comes getting things back in working order, every bolt/ screw you took out should be in a plastic zip lock bag. It also should be labeled. This all makes for a easier and speedy re-assembly.

I have found that, its necessary to put things back in the opposite order that it was re-moved. This way you don't find yourself having to remove a part because it wasn't suppose to go till last.

You might find you need to maneuver the pan a Lil to get it in but not much, just slip it in where you pulled it out.

Other then that your done, make sure to torque the rear main seal bolts to specified torque, also don't torque the pan bolts to tight. I put them just snug, there easy to strip. But the good thing is all that's left is making sure the oil drain plug is on, and the filter. Then fill with the correct amount of oil and start it up and check for leaks. Your done!

If you make a mistake and strip a bolt no big deal it happens, that's why they invented easy outs and tap sets.

I did the same thing and you cant even tell as a matter of fact it didn't even leak!

But next time I need to change my gasket I'll have a Lil more work!

Luck is for suckers I'll see you on the road!!!